Tuesday, April 19, 2011

A Tale of Two Cities


Since I’ve been in a competitive mood lately and slow to write about my trip to Berlin due to the spike in the number of orphans needing to be rescued from house fires, I’m going to pit two cities against each other. And since they’ve never been able to get along in the past, and I recently visited both of them, it'll be Berlin and Paris. In the attempt to disguise this as some sort of quasi-objective and fair competition, the cities will be judged on Language, Friendliness, Monuments, Food, and Wild Card, which is probably where I will just rant about thin-

What? No, Paris, please just sit do- No. There’s no need to throw things jus- Just- Ok Paris, stop swinging the fondue stick. Stop. Ok, we’ll do that if you sit do- Sit. Ok, thank you.

And since the Parisians are already whining about how this system isn’t fair to them, “Desserts” will be included as a separate category as well. You’re welcome, Paris.

LANGUAGE:

Paris – Sacre Bleu! The hype French gets as a beautiful language is grossly overrated. Have you ever heard it spoken by a pack (pod? gaggle?) of teenage boys playing soccer? Imagine the dulcet tones of walruses fighting to the death. And I know that all languages sound awful when spoken by teenagers, but French sounds particularly bad because Parisians are required to get nasal implants at birth that prohibit breathing through the nose. So now you have a brood of teenage walruses with allergies battling for their lives in futbol. And what language needs two accents, a vowel hat, and a squiggly that gets attached to the bottom of “C’s?” A pretentious language, that’s what. Good day to you, French.

Berlin – Let’s just say it: Germans are obsessed with flatulence. It seems every fourth word ends in “-fahrt,” and from what I can tell, it’s acceptable to tack on to any prefix. So maybe I was a little biased in favor of Berlin because I was giggling at the language the whole time. But German still isn’t much better than French. It’s phonetic yes, but it also looks like . And some of the “letters” were either straight up stolen from Greek or doodled by a lonely 2nd grader while his friends played Battleship. I’m looking at you, S-set, with your Beta and your “f3” hybrid letter. Plus, words get hard to pronounce when they’re more than ten letters long. I swear, Germans must play scrabble with twice as many letters. Or a “fahrt” tile.

Point: Berlin, because I’m that juvenile.

FRIENDLINESS:

Paris – All right, let’s just get this out of the way, too. Parisians much prefer it if you speak French. It’s not that they’re hostile towards you if you can’t par-lezz voos the Francis, they just look at you with a mix of contempt and boredom. It’s similar to the way most people look at rednecks trying to do math. But if you can somehow convince them you’re not a complete moron, they can be quite friendly. It’s just that sometimes it’s easier to pluck off all of your own fingernails than convince a Frenchman that not all Americans are idiots.

Berlin – Berlin easily takes the cake on friendliness. And then returns it with a bottle of wine because they felt bad about stealing it in the first place. Everyone from people on the streets, to waiters in restaurants, to the desk clerk at the hostel was willing to attempt some English with us if they weren’t able to speak it perfectly already. One of the hostel workers acted as an amateur bartender for us, and everything was on the house. And maybe I was just in a good mood from all the “fahrt” jokes, but it seemed like everyone on the street was a bit happier as well.

Point: Berlin.

Editor’s Note: Berlin will be forfeiting its Friendliness Point. Seems someone stole my debit card information and robbed me of over a thousand dollars. Shame on you, Berlin. And Paris, you can stop your giggling because you’re not getting the Point either. I heard what you said, and I don’t find it very flattering, or friendly. Category dropped.

MONUMENTS:

Paris – Eiffel Tower. The Louvre. Versailles. Arc de Triomphe. Sacre Coeur. The Louis Vuitton Store. And those are just the ones I can think of off the top of m- Paris, if you keep interrupting me, you’re going to get disqualified. Paris would like to let everyone know that they “Also have a Statue of Liberty like you fat Americans” and that they “saved the best materials for ourselves. Hon, hon, hon.” Apparently, they’re going to drop all pretenses and concede defeat on the friendliness point entirely. But they are right to be proud of all of their monuments. They’re all impressive, and the Eiffel Tower even puts on quite a show at night.

Berlin – Brandenburg Gate. The Berlin Wall. Charlottenburg Palace. Berliner Dom. The East Berlin TV Spire That I Can’t Remember The Name Of. Also a very impressive group of monuments. And Berlin can boast more museums than Paris and London combined at over 180. And Berlin’s representatives aren’t yelling at me to include more of their monuments in the list. Thank you, Berlin.

Point: Paris. If you match up the Eiffel Tower to the Berlin Spire, Versailles to Charlottenburg Palace, Arc de Triomphe to Brandenburg Gate, and Sacre Coeur to Berliner Dom, Paris wins every one of them. It’s about quality over quantity, Berlin. And having everything blown up 70 years ago is no excuse.

FOOD:

Paris – I’m going to say outright that Paris got a distinct advantage here. I was much less concerned about conserving funds in Paris than I was in Berlin because I recalculated my budget in between. That said, Paris did not disappoint. Many ducks were slaughtered to feed me that weekend, including the fattened young ones that produce sweet, sweet foie gras. And the fish. The ocean must be entirely devoid of tuna and salmon after all of the sushi we ate. Did I eat in excess and at the expense of many adorable creatures? Probably. Did I enjoy it anyway? Absolutely. Do I like answering my own questions like a pompous asshat? Indubitably.

Berlin – Even working with a tight budget, Berlin did not disappoint either. The food was significantly cheaper, portions were massive, and I still managed to devour an entire menagerie of cute and exotic animals. Plus, the options were definitely more novel than the fare you usually get in Belgium and the rest of Western Europe, or I at least thought that because I had no idea how to read a menu.

Point: One to each. Well done, you two.

DESSERTS:

Paris – You know we’re just giving you this to build the suspense for the final category, right? And because you’re an insufferable whiner. I just want to hate you so much. But you do have beignets… and crepes…

Berlin – Sorry Berlin, but you knew this category was rigged from the beginning. No amount of Kinder eggs is going to beat out crepes and beignets. Buck up, lil’ camper. There’s another round coming.

Point: Paris

WILD CARD:

Paris – Paris is what I imagine having a little brother is like. Annoying as hell some of the time, tolerable most of the time, and actually halfway fun after it takes a nap and washes up. And much like a little brother, when Paris decides to be difficult, it doesn’t cut corners. Let’s just take the metro lines. After failing to get on the right train to Versailles for nearly an hour, we finally found ourselves heading in the correct direction. Granted, about half of that delay was our fault for not properly researching the lines. But Paris blows its nose with forgiveness and refused to provide any sort of explanation or metro worker for the entirety of the process. Then, a return ticket from Versailles on the exact same train requires an entirely different ticket that costs twice as much. And finally, when you’ve had enough of it all and just want to escape back to good ol’ Belgium, Paris forces you to use three metro passes just to reach your train, even though you haven’t left the metro lines the entire way there. One day, before your big job interview, I’m going to slip laxatives in your escargot, Paris. It’s just the nature of our love-hate relationship.

Berlin – Berlin is like the family member you enjoy having around on special occasions, but never any time else. It’s pretty nice and usually entertaining, but sometimes it does weird things like eat the potpourri and blare techno music on Christmas morning. It certainly means well, but some times it seems like it’s trying too hard to make up for that one “incident” that happened years ago that most people in the family would prefer to forget. But at least Berlin is pretty easy to get along with, despite all of that. Maybe if I spent more time with it, I would value its company more.

Point: Paris. Even though Paris smells funny and is really whiny, I can at least understand what it’s saying most of the time. And even though sometimes I want to tell it that no one cares for it and it’s adopted, I sort of love it deep down for reasons that aren’t clear to me. But that doesn’t mean I won’t send you to the orphanage and hang out with Cousin Berlin on a moment’s notice, Paris.

Notes:
1.     Someone in Berlin actually did manage to get my debit card information and rob me of the aforementioned amount. In Chicago. A week later. Thankfully (shameless plug) Bank of America took care of it for me and will reimburse me in full. That guy had better be having a field day.
2.     Although I had been to Paris before, I somehow missed out on Versailles. While you kind of felt like King Louis XIV was a terrible ruler, he sure knew how to party it up in style.
3.     Berlin is the best place to go to eat a lot and eat cheap. I managed to get a four-course meal from a nice Thai restaurant for around 13 Euros. In Brussels, 13 Euros will get you a bottle of water and a croissant. And the water will be carbonated.
4.     Train travel is definitely my preferred method of transportation now. Cheaper than a flight (usually), smoother, safer, and no security checkpoints or luggage restrictions. There’s a train from Brussels to Atlanta right?
5.     Since my weekend in Paris was my last major trip, we’re winding down on the number of remaining posts. There’s probably one more Clash of the Continents and something sappy and heartfelt about Brussels coming before I leave.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

I can see Spain from my hotel!


    In this week’s episode of “Captain Ryan Goes Somewhere on a Plane or a Train” (copyright in progress), we visit the Kingdom of Morocco. Before recounting the details of the journey, here are some facts about Tangier and Morocco, probably:
·      The Kingdom is ruled by Mohammed the Sixth, who has at least 3 palaces in Tangier alone.
·      Mohammed the Sixth looks like a pauper compared to Captain Ryan
·      Morocco’s main export is hash. Its main import is pasty white kids.
·      Moroccan law states that boys may be named Mohammed, Said, or Abdul. No deviations from these three options are permitted.
·      Women are not allowed in Morocco.
·      So there.

Now that you have a comprehensive understanding of Moroccan customs and laws, it’s important to note that Moroccans are a welcoming and generous people. For example, my roommate was offered hash within 45 seconds of arriving at our hotel, and our friendly tour guide Abdul offered to take us on a “super awesome tour to everywhere for cheap!” at least seven times. If persistence were indicative of IQ, Tangier would make Atlantis look like a daycare, and the lady who accosted Matt in the Kasbah (which we rocked), would make the entire faculty at Harvard look like the cast of Jersey Shore.

Fortunately we gave in to Adbul’s persistence because he took us on a solid tour to see things we wouldn’t have otherwise. We went to the Cave of Hercules, rode camels, fed monkeys, and broke into an Arab oil baron’s compound. I would say that I was scared of a pissed off Arab avenging my trespassing on his property, but Abdul claimed it was his father’s property. His tracksuit and profession as an unlicensed tour guide told me otherwise, but I wasn’t too concerned. Captain Ryan’s blog is huge in the Middle East, so I’m sure the oil baron would actually thank me for gracing his property with my presence. Abdul turned out to be a pretty awesome guide until he abandoned briefly us in the Kasbah. But he redeemed himself by cursing out that really intelligent lady who grabbed Matt.

The next day we went to the beach. Moroccans were apparently unaware that eye damage can occur from looking directly at white people in the sunlight because we had the beautiful, pristine beach to ourselves for most of the afternoon. Except the beach was neither beautiful, nor pristine, nor empty. We did damage a few corneas though when we took out shirts off to play soccer with some Moroccan kids. One of the kids, Abdul (seriously not kidding about the names), spoke Spanish so we worked out some teams and played for a few hours. We then went swimming in what I was convinced was a wastewater treatment facility, but little Abdul maintained it was “el oceano,” whatever that means. 

At this point, I’d like to address a very serious issue that some travelers have certainly encountered in the past: being white. Tangier was quite literally swarming with police. They were crawling all over everything, eating the crops, chirping all night, and leaving those nasty husks of their shells behind on all of the buildings. What I’m really trying to say is that is was safe. And despite this police plague, you couldn’t help but feel a little uneasy because you were always so clearly in the minority. There was no way to escape hawkers on the street or to blend in. Everyone is speaking a language that is entirely foreign to anything most white people recognize. I know you’re thinking, “How is that different from Los Angeles,” and to be quite honest, it probably isn’t, but it still makes you a little out of place.

However, everything I’ve mentioned so far pales in comparison to the excitement of what I’m about to tell you: We unintentionally watched the episode of Archer where you find out that Archer was born in Tangier, in Tangier. I know, I probably should have told you to sit down for that beforehand, and I apologize, but it’s just so exciting that I couldn’t wait to type it any longer. And if you’re unfamiliar with Archer or don’t like it, could you tell me what it’s like to have no friends? I hear it’s just devastating.

Notes:
1.     We ate like kings in Morocco. It was strange to have free appetizers and free refills again. And we even found a place that sold decent pizzas for around $3.50. Take that Little Caesars!
2.     Morocco is honestly one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been. Mountains and beaches are all crammed together on the Mediterranean and the weather was perfect.
3.     The proximity to Spain was a plus as well. Tangier has a heavy Spanish influence, and most of the people habla’ed some Español. We would have been in trouble if they didn’t because we knew no Arabic and almost no French.
4.     I would recommend an extended stay only if you had a guide or a Moroccan friend with you. Otherwise, you can see most of the sites in a day and a half. The nightlife is much more difficult to find than in a European country, so it’s best to stay in.
5.     Moroccans do not understand air travel. Honestly, I could write an entire post about our flight back, but suffice it to say there was almost a riot on the plane because we were delayed an hour on the tarmac.


Friday, April 1, 2011

Amateur Hour


Capping off the ten-day blitz with my brother and Andrew was a trip to Barcelona. As I think I’ve made it abundantly clear to everyone who has ever met me about how I feel about Barcelona (I love Barcelona more than Spaniards love doing nothing), I’ve decided to devote this post to informing you on the best way to handle a repeat trip to your favorite city. Let’s start from the beginning:

PACKING:
      It’s the most essential part of any trip and sets the tone for how your vacation will unfold. Will you be frustrated because you forgot your contact lens solution? Pleasantly surprised that you remembered to bring scissors? Devastated because you only brought one pair of pants and they just happened to be the ones with the mustard stain on them? If you’re like me (you’re not; I’m a unique snowflake), you will remember the essentials: clothes, basic toiletries, shoes, a razor, a scalpel, scissors, a larger pair of scissors, and your computer. It’s important to bring ALL of these things to Barcelona because you can’t trust the Spanish medical system. It’s always “Mañana” this and “It’s just a splinter” that when you’re clearly in need of a serious surgical procedure because who knows what bacteria dirty Spanish 2x4’s have.

GETTING TO THE AIRPORT:
     Make sure you get to the train station on time. After packing all of those necessities, you’re going to be a little behind schedule, so go to the proper platform and hop on the earliest train to the airport. When you realize that the train you wanted is actually two feet away on the adjacent platform, go there. If you’re like me (you still aren’t), you’ll come to this realization as the train you want is pulling away.

WAITING FOR THE NEXT TRAIN TO THE AIRPORT ON THE PROPER PLATFORM:
    Do that.

AIRPORT SECURITY:
    Take off all of your metal accessories and belt. Don’t forget your coat, either. Put all of these things in the plastic bins and put your bag on the security belt. After the bag goes through, collect your belongings and wait for the security guard to come over and tell you that you forgot to remove your laptop. Remove your laptop and send your things through screening again. Again, wait for the security guard to come over and inform you that there appears to be some contraband in your bag. Open your bag and allow her to confiscate your larger pair of scissors and your razor. Stand very still and chuckle silently as she forgets to confiscate your scalpel. Then wonder why you brought a scalpel. Finally pack up the remainder of your toiletries and head to the terminal. Be glad that your bag feels significantly lighter.

REALIZING YOUR BAG FEELS SIGNIFICANTLY LIGHTER BECAUSE YOU LEFT YOUR COMPUTER AT THE SECURITY CHECKPOINT:
    Do that too.

PANICKING:
    Wait, wait, wait. No. Don’t panic. Decide to steal someone else’s laptop for the weekend because checking the results of the NCAA tournament is significantly better on a laptop than a smart phone. After all, you’ll return it when you get back. That way, karma won’t bite you in the ass later. Realize that you have a smart phone and don’t need the laptop that you left in the safest location in the airport until you get back. Call the airport in the morning. Enjoy Barcelona.

I hope this guide allows you to have the most stressful yet successful trip to your ideal location possible. I hope my mistakes will inspire you to do the same in your future endeavors and then complain loudly to everyone in earshot how you’re an imbecile. And I sincerely hope, more than anything ever, that Natalie Portman breaks up with her fiancée.

Notes:
1.     I really did pack all of those things, miss the train even though it was right next to me, and leave my computer at the airport. I swear I was entirely sober and entirely idiotic.
2.     Barcelona is still the best city in the world.
3.     Traveling with my brother and Andrew was one of the best experiences of my life. I couldn’t travel that hard for more than 10 days, but it was a blast for the entire duration.
4.     Catalan is still a stupid bastard language.
5.     If two French guys who quote American Dad and sing American Top 40’s hits from the past 20 years offer to show you around the city for the night, absolutely take them up on it. Hesitating is for the weak.